A Master's Hands -- Tips from the Handyman

Renovate Right! -- Protect Your Family from Lead Poisoning

2009-11-21T10:43:00.003-07:00

The Renovation, Repair and Painting Rule

Common renovation activities like sanding, cutting, and demolition can create hazardous lead dust and chips by disturbing lead-based paint, which can be harmful to adults and children.

On April 22, 2008, EPA issued a rule requiring the use of lead-safe practices and other actions aimed at preventing lead poisoning. Under the rule, beginning in April 2010, contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities, and schools built before 1978 must be certified and must follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination. Until that time, HUD and EPA recommend that anyone performing renovation, repair, and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in pre-1978 homes, child care facilities and schools follow lead-safe work practices.

There are some differences between the EPA RRP Rule and the HUD Lead Safe Housing Rule (LSHR). A major difference is that the LSHR requires clearance examinations. All housing receiving federal assistance must still comply with the LSHR. OHHLHC provides Information on complying with the LSHR and RRP, and Frequently-asked Questions from Grantees. Additional information for renovators is available.

All contractors should follow these three simple procedures:

Contain the work area.
Minimize dust.
Clean up thoroughly.

From December 2008, the rule has required that contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint provide to owners and occupants of child care facilities and to parents and guardians of children under age six that attend child care facilities built prior to 1978 the lead hazard information pamphlet Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers, and Schools.

Starting on April 22, 2010, the rule will affect paid renovators who work in pre-1978 housing and child-occupied facilities, including:

Renovation contractors
Maintenance workers in multi-family housing
Painters and other specialty trades.

Under the rule, child-occupied facilities are defined as residential, public or commercial buildings where children under age six are present on a regular basis. The requirements apply to renovation, repair or painting activities. The rule does not apply to minor maintenance or repair activities where less than six square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed in a room or where less than 20 square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed on the exterior. Window replacement is not minor maintenance or repair.

Effective Dates of the Rule

June 23, 2008	Unaccredited renovator or dust sampling technician training programs may not advertise or provide training leading to EPA certification. States, Tribes, and Territories may begin to apply for authorization. Persons performing renovations for compensation in pre-1978 child-occupied facilities (e.g., child care facilities, kindergarten and pre-kindergarten classrooms) must provide either Protect Your Family or Renovate Right to the owners and occupants before beginning renovations. Modifications/exemptions to Pre-renovation Education Rule take effect: Minor repair and maintenance exception changes to < style="font-size: 9px;">2 per room for interiors, 20 ft² for exteriors. To qualify, the project cannot involve the use of high dust generating (“prohibited”) practices or window replacement. Emergency renovations specifically include interim controls performed in response to an elevated blood lead level in a child. Persons performing renovations for compensation in pre-1978 housing may use either Protect Your Family or Renovate Right to comply with the existing requirement to provide a lead hazard information pamphlet to the owners and occupants of target (pre-1978) housing before beginning renovations.
December 22, 2008	Persons performing renovations for compensation in target (pre-1978) housing or child-occupied facilities must provide Renovate Right to the owners and occupants before beginning renovations
April 22, 2009	Training providers may begin applying to EPA for accreditation to provide renovator or dust sampling technician training Persons seeking certification as renovators or dust sampling technicians may take accredited training as soon as it is available
October 22, 2009	Firms may begin applying to EPA for certification to conduct renovations
April 22, 2010	Renovations in target (pre-1978) housing and child-occupied facilities must be conducted by certified renovation firms, using renovators with accredited training, and following the work practice requirements of the rule

Jim Bartlett, owner and founder of A Master’s Hands, LLC is an EPA Certified Renovator, and able to comply with all regulations related to renovation of target homes (pre‐1978), including the ability to test for the presence of lead-based paint. We were one of the first contractors in Colorado to obtain this required certification, and are able to provide safe renovation services to our clients in older homes or commercial properties. Please contact us regarding any renovations, repairs or painting projects you’re considering and we’ll be glad to discuss them with you and provide estimates for the work required.

A Master’s Hands is the Affordable Handyman Services company in the metro Denver area, serving clients from Erie to Castle Rock and from Aurora to Georgetown. We’re fully licensed, bonded and insured, and strive to maintain a 100% client satisfaction track record.

Source: U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD), and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). To Read EPA's Lead Renovation, Repair and Painting Program Rule, or for additional information on becoming an EPA-certified renovator or training provider, visit EPA's Renovator and Trainer Tool Box site.

Carbon Monoxide Detector -- The Wrong and Right Places to Install!

2009-05-09T15:07:00.004-06:00

Carbon Monoxide Detector Placement is Crucial!

You may have recently installed a Carbon Monoxide Detector in your home. However, don't mistakenly think that you've created a safe environment by plugging the unit in to an AC outlet near the floor in a bedroom or upstairs hallway.

According to safety experts, families are not safe when Carbon Monoxide Units are mounted lower than seven inches from the ceiling! According to this advice, plugging the unit into a typical outlet near the floor creates very little safeguard against Carbon Monoxide poisoning in your home. Instead, A Master’s Hands, LLC recommends buying a battery operated unit and installing it in a main floor hallway, on or within 6 inches of the ceiling.

If you have already purchased a plug-in Carbon Monoxide Detector and feel you must utilize it, it may make sense to have an expert handyman or licensed electrician come to your home to install an AC outlet closer to the ceiling so the Carbon Monoxide Detector you already purchased can be used and be effective for you. Or, you can simply return the unit you purchased and exchange it for a battery-operated device that can easily be installed on the ceiling near sleeping quarters in your home.

Proper placement of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector is important. If you’re installing only one carbon monoxide detector, the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends it be located near the sleeping area, where it can waken you if you’re asleep. Installing additional detectors on every level and in every bedroom of a home provides extra protection against carbon monoxide poisoning.

Homeowners should take care to not install CO detectors directly above or beside fuel-burning appliances, as such appliances may emit a small amount of carbon monoxide during their start-up phase, causing false alarms. A CO detector should also not be placed within 15 feet of heating or cooking appliances, or in or near very humid areas, such as bathrooms.

WHY IT MATTERS WHERE YOU INSTALL CO DETECTORS

When considering where to place each carbon monoxide detector, keep in mind that although carbon monoxide is roughly the same weight as air (carbon monoxide's specific gravity is 0.9657, as stated by the EPA; whereas “air” has a specific gravity of 1.0), CO is nevertheless slightly lighter than air. Additionally, when CO is generated, it's often contained within warm air coming from combustion appliances, such as home heating equipment. If this is the case, carbon monoxide will rise along with the warmer air. Either way, your best way to detect CO at an early stage is with a detector mounted on or near the ceiling.

For this reason, the makers of First Alert®, a leading brand in carbon monoxide detector technology, suggests mounting their CO detectors on the ceiling. This also puts the detector out of the way of potential interference, such as accidental contact by pets or curious children. Imagine the potential consequences of depending on a detector that’s been inadvertently turned off (or unplugged) by a child innocently playing with it.

Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detector Placement

The International Association of Fire Chiefs recommends a CO detector be placed on every floor of your home, including the basement. A detector should be located within 10 feet of each bedroom door, and there should also be one near or over any attached garage. Each detector should be replaced every five to seven years. The instructions that come with most detectors include the specific replacement timeframe for that unit. Furthermore, often a label is attached to the detector, providing a location for you to record the replacement date for the unit for future reference.

Suggested installation locations seem to vary widely, by manufacturer. Manufacturers’ recommendations sometimes differ based on research conducted with each company’s specific detectors. Therefore, be sure to read the provided installation manual for each model of CO detector before installation.

CO detectors do not automatically serve as smoke detectors and vice versa. That said, “dual-detection” smoke/CO detectors are readily available, and A Master’s Hands recommends such models to our clients. Smoke detectors detect the smoke generated by flaming or smoldering fires, whereas CO detectors are designed to alert residents when CO levels rise above accepted levels. Thus, these devices could go a long way toward preventing loss of live through either smoke inhalation, or carbon monoxide poisoning in the home.

WHERE DOES CO COME FROM?

Carbon monoxide is produced as a byproduct of incomplete combustion of fossil fuels. For example, in the home, CO can be formed by open flames, space heaters, water heaters, blocked chimneys or running a car inside a garage.

Since CO is colorless, tasteless and odorless (unlike smoke from a fire), detection and prevention of carbon monoxide poisoning in a home environment is impossible without a warning device such as a CO detector. In North America, an increasing number of state, provincial and municipal governments require installation of CO detectors in new units - among them at the time of this writing are: the U.S. states of Colorado, Illinois, Massachusetts, Minnesota, New Jersey, and Vermont; plus the Canadian province of Ontario, and New York City.

According to the 2005 edition of the carbon monoxide guidelines, NFPA 720, published by the National Fire Protection Association, sections 5.1.1.1 and 5.1.1.2, all CO detectors "shall be centrally located outside of each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms", and each detector "shall be located on the wall, ceiling or other location as specified in the installation instructions that accompany the unit."

When CO detectors were introduced into the market, they had a limited lifespan of just 2 years. However technology developments have increased this and many now advertise, 5, 6 or even 7 years. Newer models are designed to signal the residents with an audible notice, indicating that the units need to be replaced. That said, there are many instances of detectors actually continuing to operate far beyond this point.

Although all home detectors use an audible alarm signal as the primary indicator, some models also offer a voice alarm that speaks clearly, stating the specific concern -- smoke, carbon monoxide, or even a low-battery situation. Some models also feature a digital readout of the CO concentration, in parts per million. Typically, these models can display both the current reading as well as a peak reading (from memory) of the highest level measured over a period of time.

The digital models offer the advantage of being able to observe levels that are below the alarm threshold, detect and record levels that may have occurred during the residents’ absence, and assess the degree of hazard if the alarm sounds. They may also aid emergency responders in evaluating the level of past or ongoing exposure or danger of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Battery-only carbon monoxide detectors tend to go thru batteries more frequently, but with a need to change batteries only about once yearly, they should be fine. Plug-in detectors with a battery backup (for use if the power is interrupted) provide less battery-changing maintenance, but (as mentioned earlier) there’s usually no duplex (AC power) outlet on the ceiling, so a battery-powered device is recommended.

Some CO detectors are available as system-connected, monitored devices. System-connected detectors, which can be wired to either a security or fire panel, are monitored by a central station. In cases where the residence is empty, the residents are sleeping or occupants are already suffering from the effects of CO, the central station can be alerted to the high concentrations of CO gas and can send the proper authorities to investigate possible carbon monoxide poisoning.

If CO does find its way into your home, the levels may build, creating a dangerous situation. In the UL2034 Standard, Underwriters Laboratories specifies response times for CO alarms as follows:

* At 70 parts per million: Unit must sound alarm within 60-240 minutes.

* At 150 parts per million: Unit must sound alarm within 10-50 minutes.

* At 400 parts per million: Unit must sound alarm within 4-15 minutes.

WHAT TO DO IF YOUR CO DETECTOR ISSUES AN ALARM?

Carbon monoxide is a by-product of combustion, present whenever fuel is burned. It is produced by common household appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, clothes dryers, water heaters, ovens and ranges. A charcoal grill operating in an enclosed area, a fire burning in a fireplace or a car running in an attached garage also produce carbon monoxide.

According to the Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA), carbon monoxide is the number one cause of poisoning deaths in the U.S. Making sure furnaces and other potential carbon monoxide sources are properly vented and in good working condition, along with owning a UL listed carbon-monoxide detector, could become a matter of life and death.

But what do you do and who to you call when your carbon monoxide detector goes into the alarm state? The manufacturer of First Alert®, the leading brand of carbon monoxide detectors, recommends the following:

If the alarm goes off, turn off appliances or other sources of combustion at once. Immediately get fresh air into the premises by opening doors and windows. Call a qualified technician and have the problem fixed before restarting appliances. If anyone is experiencing symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning: headaches, dizziness, vomiting, call the fire department and immediately move to a location that has fresh air. Do a head count to be sure all persons are accounted for. Do not re-enter the premises until it has been aired out and the problem corrected.

To identify the source/s of carbon monoxide, have a professional check the following :

* Gas or oil furnaces are frequently the source of carbon monoxide leaks. Measure concentrations of carbon monoxide in flue gases. Check all connections to flue pipes and venting systems for cracks, gaps, rust, corrosion or debris. Check the filters and filtering systems for dirt and blockages. Check the combustion chamber and heat exchanger for cracks, holes, metal fatigue or corrosion.

* Check furnace flame, burners and ignition systems. A predominately yellow, flat, lazy-looking flame in a natural gas furnace indicates fuel is not burning efficiently and is thus releasing higher than usual levels of carbon monoxide. Oil furnaces with a similar problem produce an 'oil' odor, but remember you can't smell, see or taste carbon monoxide.

* Chimneys and venting systems must be carefully checked for blockages caused by debris, animal nests, cracks, holes or cave-ins. A blocked chimney or venting system can force dangerous gases back into your home.

* Venting and fan systems on all fuel burning appliances must be inspected for proper installation to assure carbon monoxide is vented out rather than in. Don't forget gas water heaters, clothes dryers, space heaters or wood burning stoves.

* Inspect fireplaces for blocked or bent chimneys or flues, soot and debris or holes in the chimney that could release carbon monoxide exhaust back into the home.

* Stove pilot lights in a closed-up home can be a source of carbon monoxide build-up if not operating properly because they are not vented to the outside. Check to be sure they are operating properly.

* Fireplace pilot lights can also produce carbon monoxide and should be checked regularly.

* NOTE: Never burn charcoal inside no matter how much you want to recapture summer and never use your gas stove as a heater. Keep the oven door closed and use it for cooking only.

* NOTE: Never leave a car running in an attached garage even if the garage door is open.

Taking time to understand the characteristics of carbon monoxide and how Underwriters Laboratories, Inc. (UL) listed carbon monoxide detectors work could save your life.

Carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless. There is only one safe and reliable way to detect carbon monoxide in your home -- install a carbon monoxide detector / alarm.

HOW CARBON MONOXIDE AFFECTS YOU

CO combines with hemoglobin by binding tightly with the hemoglobin, the oxygen-carrying agent within our red blood cells. When CO binds with hemoglobin, forming carboxyhemoglobin, oxygen is no longer transported by hemoglobin in the blood to provide life to organs throughout the body. When oxygen is robbed from the brain and other organs, death can result. In addition, up to 40 percent of survivors of severe CO poisoning experience memory impairment and suffer from other serious illnesses.

Many cases of reported carbon monoxide poisoning indicate that victims are aware they aren't feeling well, but become so disoriented that they're unable to save themselves.

HOW TO PREVENT CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING

The Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends every residence with fuel-burning appliances be equipped with at least one UL-Listed CO alarm.

In addition, take the following measures:

* Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to manufacturer’s instructions.

* Have the heating system, chimney and vents inspected and serviced annually.

* Examine vents and chimneys regularly for improper connections, cracks, rust or stains.

* Make sure to read your CO alarm's user’s guide and keep it near your CO alarm for quick reference.

For more information on keeping your home safe, contact A Master’s Hands, LLC.

www.amastershands.com Phone: 720-468-3225

Lock Bumping: Are your family and home safe?

2009-02-07T21:37:00.001-07:00

Home Security at Risk! -- Lock Bumping

Something every homeowner should protect themselves against

First, watch these two videos so that you understand how vulnerable most entry-door locks are:

http://www.mul-t-lockusa.com/player.asp?mediaid=5&format=hi – A TV news segment mentioning how lock bumping is used my thieves to quickly gain illegal entry to homes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwTVBWCijEQ -- YouTube video explaining how to make “bump” keys, and how they are used. The bad guys already know all about this method…I’m just educating h homeowners.

What can and should be done?

Get a monitored Alarm System! First of all, a lock is only a deterrent to theft or burglary. It won’t stop a determined thief who can simply break out a window and come in that way. The strongest deterrent is a monitored alarm system, which is much more difficult to circumvent, and protects against all forms of entry. Most alarm systems also have a provision for detecting motion inside the home, so that even if a thief is able to gain entry without triggering a window or door circuit (such as by knocking a hole through a wall and crawing in that way), the thief’s motion inside the home will trigger the alarm. Most of the better alarm systems with motion sensing technology can also be adjusted to accommodate movement of small pets inside your home while you’re away, without a “false trigger” of the alarm. Most alarm systems also can be fitted with glass-breakage alarm sensors, so that if non-protected glass panes are broken (such as an upper-story picture window or sidelight panels – areas of glass that wouldn’t normally be used for entry) the alarm will sense the unique sound of broken glass and trigger the alarm.
Post exterior signs advertising your alarm system. If you have an alarm system, be sure its presence is well advertised around the perimeter of your home….such as with easily-recognized signs near primary entry points. With an alarm, the objective should never be to surprise a would-be thief by allowing him to first break one of your doors or windows in an attempted illegal entry, only to discover you have an active alarm system which he’s just triggered. At that point it’s too late to prevent property damage, and the broken window/door may allow wind, rain, snow (etc) to enter your home for an hour or more before someone arrives and discovers it and can take corrective action. Far better to alert the thief to your alarm’s presence, and thus dissuade him from attempting entry to your home. He’ll move on, looking for easier pickings elsewhere.
Use the alarm system! It’s amazing to me how many people have homes that are equipped with alarm systems, but who don’t utilize them. They’ve become complacent with their state of low-security, and don’t feel at risk of a break-in. Further, they’ve probably come to see an alarm system as a hassle….one more thing to deal with whenever they need to run out or come back from errands. Thus, they don’t arm their alarm, sometimes leave their garage door open, and even take off and in advertently leave other entry doors (besides the one they depart through) unlocked. This is a potential thief’s dream-come-true.
Upgrade your locks! Once you have the “umbrella” coverage in place that comes from an active alarm system, the next thing to consider is replacing entry-door locks with bump-proof locksets. If you don’t already have an alarm system and one is not in your budget, then upgrading to bump-proof locksets should be a very high priority. If you don’t have deadbolts, put one in on each entry door. They are much more secure than a simple doorknob lockset. Lastly, if an entry door contains glass panels, or there are adjacent glass panels (such as in sidelights or window panels), consider using a twin (not single) cylinder deadbolt, so a thief can’t simply break a small pane of glass, reach through the hole and unlock your deadbolt from the inside using the lever. If you use a twin-cylinder deadbolt, be sure to remove the key from the lock after locking it….put on a nearby end-table or anywhere else your family members can remember to look for it and quickly / easily find it in case of emergency.

A Master's Hands, LLC can assist our clients in replacing weak links in their home security....improved locksets, deadbolts, etc. Call us for more information!

Replacing Support Posts

2008-11-01T22:52:00.000-06:00

Replacing A Rotten Support Post

Exterior decks on older homes are often supported by 4x4 posts that are "untreated" lumber and become rotten over time, requiring replacement. A recent client of mine needed this kind of work done and contacted us to help with the project.

This type of project is pretty straightforward for an able-bodied homeowner, especially if he/she is able to obtain help from a friend or neighbor.

The first step is to determine specifically what materials are needed for the repair. This includes the length of the new pressure-treated 4x4 post, and any other lumber required, such as trim pieces, shims, etc. In many instances the existing support post will be sitting on a concrete pier or pad, but not actually tied into the concrete. In such cases, you may find that the top end of the post has simply been toe-nailed into the adjacent joists (usually 2" x 10" or similar). When replacing a support post of this type, I recommend using a metal "box" bracket to secure the post to the concrete pier on the bottom, and "L" brackets to secure the post to joists at the top. Naturally, you'll need masonry anchors to go into the concrete and fasten to the metal bracket at the bottom, and deck screws to secure the L brackets at the top. So, you'll need 1/2-inch anchor bolts sufficiently long to drive 2.5-3 inches into the concrete and still have at least an inch of threads above the bracket. Be sure to purchase matching washers, and nuts. You'll also need 2-4 lag bolts the right size to go through side holes in the box bracket, as well as L-brackets and and some deck screws.

Beyond the above hardware and lumber components, you'll need primer and topcoat paint for the new post. It's much easier to prime and paint support posts (especially very tall ones) while they are horizontal, rather than having to stand on a ladder to paint them once they've been installed. It's also wise to purchase concrete sealer to seal the pad after you have drilled it to receive the anchor bolts.

In addition to the above materials, you'll need to assemble all the necessary tools:

Pole jack -- critical to providing support for the deck while removing the existing rotted support post and installing the new one. (This is a tool you can rent at many tool rental shops; there's no need to purchase one unless you expect to be doing this sort of repair frequently.)
Hammer drill and 1/2-inch masonry bit -- to drill holes for the masonry anchor bolts. A regular electric drill will work, but a hammer drill makes the job a lot easier...it makes the masonry bit cut through concrete like butter.
Plastic mallet -- to help drive metal "box" bracket onto post bottom, and to set the anchor bolts into the concrete pad.
Hammer -- to help remove the old post and toe-nailed fasteners
Drill / screw gun -- to pre-drill holes and drive new deck screws at top; drive lag bolts
Saw (hand saw or power circular saw) -- to cut new post to final length before installation
Ratchet wrench and socket set (3/8- oir 1/2inch drive)
Crow or pry bar -- to help remove trim pieces, and to break the old post free of joists
Paint brush, roller, roller pan, etc. -- to apply primer and paint to new post, and to apply sealant to the concrete pad
Plumb bob -- for ensuring the new post is positioned vertically
Level -- to check level of top of deck when setting height with new post
Ladder.

Doing the Job:

First, position the pole jack adjacent to the existing post at both top and bottom, ensuring you have a good, stable point on which the jack sits -- both on the concrete and on the bottom surface of the deck structure.

Before you jack up the deck, check existing level to see how close everything is to being level. A longer level is best, but even a short one will give you an idea. If you're using a 2-foot level and the deck side is 10 feet long, you're multiplier factor is 5. If you're off by what appears to be 1/16-inch of level (need to raise one end of the level this much to center the bubble when measuring at the end of the deck), then multiply by the factor (5 in the example given) and that's how much the deck should be raised (or lowered) to hit dead level when you install the new post. If you measure the length of the existing post and add/subtract this amount, you'll be very close to the length dimension you need to cut the new post. I say "close" because you'll natgurally need to take the thickness of the box bracket into account in the final calculation.

Next, begin cranking the jack up until it begins to take the weight of the deck off of the old support post. Check this periodically as you apply increasing pressure with the pole jack. I also recommend using deck screws to secure the pole jack in place so it can't scoot or slip sideways under pressure.

Once the pole jack is supporting essentially all of the weight of the deck, push the old post out of position (the bottom may be simply sitting on the concrete pad), and then wrest the top end free of the joists above, using a hammer, small sledge, and/or pry bar.

Next, use the plumb bob to ensure you locate the proper center point for the new post on the concrete pad, and mark it, using the metal box bracket. I use a small cup hook to hang the bob line from the center point of the deck mounting point, and adjust the length until the bob tip just brushes the concrete pad. When the bob becomes stationary (you may need to help it, especially if it's a windy day), mark the center point, and then extend that mark so you have center marks for all mounting-hole positions (from "ears" of box bracket) on the concrete pad. Now you're ready to drill the anchor holes.

Drill the anchor holes with a masonry bit, taking care to ensure the bit doesn't travel. It only takes a small amount of bit travel to shift a hole enough that it will make it difficult to get all the anchor bolts to align with holes in the bracket. Most anchor bolts are designed to be sunk at least two inches in the concrete, and this depth will magnify any error caused by drill bit drift on the surface. One way to minimize drift is to clamp (or have someone secure by standing on) the bracket against the concrete pad and drill the anchor holes with the bit threaded through the mounting bracket holes.

Drive the anchor bolts into the holes taking care not to bugger the top ends while driving. I use a plastic or hard rubber mallet for this purpose, but you can also use a regular hammer or small sledge together with a scrap piece of wood, such as a 9-inch piece of 1" x 2" as a buffer. Hold one end of the wood scrap and position the wood on top of the anchor bolt. Then strike the wood directly over the bolt. Move the wood around as you continue striking, so that the top of the bolt doesn't fully penetrate the wood. When you're finished, the wood scrap will be destroyed, but you'll have protected the bolt ends. Prep the concrete with sealant, to ensure against scaling or spalling. This is especially important if you live in climate with serious freeze/thaw cycles.

Prep the post by priming and painting. You may want to consider a special waterproof coating for the bottom 4-5 inches, to ensure against rot, especially if you live in a climate where snow may accumulate around the bottom of the post.

Slide the bracket into the bottom end of the new post, ensuring the post bottoms out in the bracket. Secure the bracket to the post with lag bolts through side holes. Most brackets are pre-drilled with 8 or more mounting holes for this purpose; however, you should only need 2-4 lag bolts. As you pre-drill the wood post for the bolts, be sure to select holes that are offset from each other so the bolts won't interfere with each other when you drive them in.

Set the bottom end of the post in place, so that the anchor bolts fit through the holes in the box bracket, while leaning the top end of the post off at an angle (usually inside, under the deck, to clear outside overhanging trim pieces), and then swing the top of the post up and into position.

Check to ensure the post is plumb (both directions) and then slowly lower the deck weight onto the new post by lowering the pole jack. As weight transfers to the new post, you should be able to confirm if the length is correct by checking level on the deck railing above. If you're a bit high, jack up again, remove the post and trim it slightly, as appropriate. If you're low, you'll need to add a shim of appropriate thickness. Once you have the correct length and are level on top when the weight is fully on the new post, secure the top end with L brackets and deck screws, then secure the bottom box bracket with washers and nuts.

All that remains to be done is installation of any exterior trim pieces that may have been removed. All done!

Simple Concrete Repairs

2008-11-01T20:11:00.000-06:00

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Is Your Concrete Driveway or Sidewalk in Need of Repair?

With the economy being in the shape it's in, more and more people are holding on to the homes they have rather than upgrading, resizing, etc. This trend has natural consequences, such as the need for people to do more repairs and routine maintenance on their existing homes as time passes.

As homes age, an increasing number of homeowners are noticing that concrete driveways, sidewalks and patios are showing signs that they're in need of repair. The problem areas tend to range from small cracks or small areas of scaling to larger cracks, spalling, pop-outs, and break-offs. As with almost all problems, if addressed quickly, they can be remediated at lower cost than if such problems are allowed to continue to go unchecked. Problems areas in concrete that should be addressed immediately are large cracks, serious spalling, corners that are broken off, or areas that are heaving or sinking.

Naturally, concrete repairs can be very expensive, so I've found most people would prefer to do the work themselves, assumiung they have the knowledge to do so. Thus, here's some tips on doing some of the more basic concrete repairs....they're not difficult to do, and don't require expensive tools.

Many homeowners have successfully made repairs to their driveways themselves, benefiting from significant cost savings. For those with driveways in need of repair and who have the skills and inclination to make their own repairs, here's some basic information that should be of value. A Master's Hands, LLC does not warrant the accuracy of this information, or accept any liability associated with the use of this information – it’s provided solely for our readers' convenience. If in doubt, contact a professional concrete repair service.

Repairing Cracks in Concrete

There are a number of simple methods that can be used to repair cracks in concrete. The appropriate method to use depends on the severity of the crack, whether it's located indoors our outdoors, and whether you plan to paint or stain the concrete afterward.

First, you should know that not all cracks in concrete need to be repaired. All concrete is guaranteed to crack sooner or later. That's why contractors include grooves (called control or expansion joints) across the surface of concrete. Those joints are meant to intentionally weaken the concrete in those particular spots to give the concrete a natural "weak" spot in which to crack. When cracks occur along these joints, the cracks are much less noticeable. In most cases these cracks along expansion joints don't become a problem as long as there is a proper sub-grade layer through which water can pass, such that water doesn't remain standing in the cracks, where it can freeze and cause further cracking.

More often than not, repairs made to minor cracks can be more unsightly than the cracks themselves. Cracks 1/8-inch or less in width can usually be left alone without further damage occurring. This rule-of-thumb assumes you have a proper sub-grade, and also assumes the crack wasn’t caused by an entire section breaking off and separating completely from the rest of the surface (such as when a heavy weight is applied on a corner that breaks through). The most common cause of such "break-offs" is a heavy truck or other vehicle driving over the surface, close to the edge where underlying support is weaker. Thus, always be careful about having heavy vehicles drive on your concrete driveway. If they must do so, be sure to have them stay away from the edges of the surface.

If a small untreated crack grows larger, or you see the concrete chipping away along the crack, you should address it by having some repairs done. However, repairing concrete cracks won't always solve the problem if the concrete isn't structurally sound – such as when the cracking is being caused by movement in the earth below…such as in areas troubled by expansive soil (e.g. bentonite, etc).

If a crack has quickly opened more than ¼-inch in width, or there is vertical displacement (one side of the crack is higher than the other), you should consult a contractor for structural problems and solutions.

Methods for Repairing Simple Concrete Cracks:

For small cracks, use a wire brush to remove any loose debris and rinse thoroughly with water. Allow the crack to dry completely. Use concrete / mortar repair or epoxy crack filler (in a caulking tube, with caulk gun) to fill the crack. Force the material down inside the crack with a thin object such as a putty knife. Then smooth out the surface with a trowel, or with your finger.

For larger cracks, clean, rinse and let it dry. Then chisel out the crack to create a backward-angled cut, using a cold chisel and a hammer (see figure). This shape, along with the bonding adhesive, helps keep the repair material from loosening or popping out of the crack. Mix a batch of concrete patching material according to the supplied instructions. Fill the crack with the patching material, making sure it is forced well down into the concrete, filling the entire crack if possible. Then smooth out the surface with a trowel.

For even larger cracks follow the cleaning directions above, then pour sand into the crack below the top surface. Prepare sand-mix concrete, adding a concrete fortifier, then trowel the mixture into the crack, feathering until even with the surrounding surface.

When the patching begins to harden, scrape off excess down the sides of the crack and smooth out the repair with a soft, wet brush. An old paintbrush should work well.

Repair Tips:

Repair concrete cracks when the temperature is above 50 degrees (F) and overnight temperatures are not expected to drop below freezing the next few nights.

If you plan to acid stain your concrete, be sure the caulk or patching used for any repairs contains cement or cementitious material. If not, the acid won't react properly with the patches will be left uncolored by the stain.

Don't do repairs when it's too hot or too windy. If you do so, the material will dry out too fast, resulting in a weak repair. If repairs in such conditions are unavoidable, then secure a plastic sheet covering over it, and/or take steps to shield it from the sun.

After your repairs are fully cured, if they appear significantly darker in color than the surrounding concrete, try rubbing the patched area with a flat stone. This will turn the repaired areas of concrete white, making it less noticeable.

After you repair cracks in concrete, it's always a good idea to put a coat of concrete sealer over the area to help prevent water seepage. This will help your repair last longer.

Spalling / Scaling

Concrete spalling and scaling are common occurrences, especially on exterior surfaces that are exposed to many freeze and thaw cycles. The difference between the two situations is that spalling involves bigger chunks breaking loose. There are many causes of spalling, including improper finishing methods and curing methods. Scaling on a properly finished and cured surface is most often caused by the use of salt or other de-icing chemicals on the surface, especially in the first year or two after the concrete has been poured, or later on when the surface has not been recently re-sealed.

Pop-outs

Popouts are a fairly common occurrence on exterior concrete surfaces. They are small, conical pieces that break away from the surface, leaving a shallow divot. This happens when aggregates near the surface split or expand, creating pressure and causing pieces of concrete to pop out of the surface. Fortunately, with spalling, scaling or popouts, simple repairs can be performed to fill the voids, which will help prevent further deterioration, as well as improving the look of your concrete walk or driveway.

How to Repair

Chip out the edges of spalled/scaled or popout areas, and use a hose to clean out the area. Brush away all loose debris and concrete chips. You may wish to use a pressure washer, if available. Clean the area thoroughly with water and use cleaners to get rid of oil and grease or anything that might inhibit bonding of the repair. Then let it dry fully.
Mix up a batch of concrete repair mortar. If the damaged area is deeper than an inch, add some small gravel to the mix, such as pea gravel. Make sure the repair mortar contains a bonding agent, or add some liquid bonding agent to the mix. Anything that says acrylic, vinyl, or latex on the label should contain a bonding agent.
Place the mortar in the hole and smooth with a trowel. Don't overwork it.
When the patch begins to harden, brush it lightly with a damp brush for a better appearance.
For curing, brush some clear sealer over the surface before it gets too hard and begins turning white. If you don't have any sealer, keep it covered with a damp towel or other covering for a few days.

Tips on Maintenance Following Your Repairs:

No foot traffic on the surface for at least 36 hours, and no vehicle traffic for at least a week.
Apply concrete sealer after resurfacing has hardened, and once a year in the fall if you live in a harsh climate.
Use de-icers that DO NOT contain any calcium or sodium chloride.

A Master's Hands -- Tips from the Handyman Pros

2008-11-01T20:02:00.000-06:00

Hi -- this blog is a free service, through which I hope to provide basic information to homeowners, such as tips on how to make simple repairs, adjustments, etc., to save money and make their lives more enjoyable and homes more safe and secure.

I welcome ideas on topics for future blog entries. Just email me! -- Jim Bartlett, A Master's Hands