Renovate Right! -- Protect Your Family from Lead Poisoning

Renovate Right

The Renovation, Repair and Painting Rule Common renovation activities like sanding, cutting, and demolition can create hazardous lead dust and chips by disturbing lead-based paint, which can be harmful to adults and children. On April 22, 2008, EPA issued a rule requiring the use of lead-safe practices and other actions aimed at preventing lead poisoning. Under the rule, beginning in April 2010, contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities, and schools built before 1978 must be certified and must follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination. Until that time, HUD and EPA recommend that anyone performing renovation, repair, and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in pre-1978 homes, child care facilities and schools follow lead-safe work practices. There are some differences between the EPA RRP Rule and the HUD Lead Safe Housing Rule (LSHR). A major difference is that the LSHR requires clearance examinations. All housing receiving federal assistance must still comply with the LSHR. OHHLHC provides Information on complying with the LSHR and RRP, and Frequently-asked Questions from Grantees. Additional information for renovators is available. All contractors should follow these three simple procedures: Contain the work area. Minimize dust. Clean up thoroughly. From December 2008, the rule has required that contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint provide to owners and occupants of child care facilities and to parents and guardians of children under age six that attend child care facilities built prior to 1978 the lead hazard information pamphlet Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers, and Schools. Starting on April 22, 2010, the rule will affect paid renovators who work in pre-1978 housing and child-occupied facilities, including: Renovation contractors Maintenance workers in multi-family housing Painters and other specialty trades. Under the rule, child-occupied facilities are defined as residential, public or commercial buildings where children under age six are present on a regular basis. The requirements apply to renovation, repair or painting activities. The rule does not apply to minor maintenance or repair activities where less than six square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed in a room or where less than 20 square feet of lead-based paint is disturbed on the exterior. Window replacement is not minor maintenance or repair. Effective Dates of the Rule June 23, 2008 Unaccredited renovator or dust sampling technician training programs may not advertise or provide training leading to EPA certification. States, Tribes, and Territories may begin to apply for authorization. Persons performing renovations for compensation in pre-1978 child-occupied facilities (e.g., child care facilities, kindergarten and pre-kindergarten classrooms) must provide either Protect Your Family or Renovate Right to the owners and occupants before beginning renovations. Modifications/exemptions to Pre-renovation Education Rule take effect: Minor repair and maintenance exception changes to < style="font-size: 9px;">2 per room for interiors, 20 ft2 for exteriors. To qualify, the project cannot involve the use of high dust generating (“prohibited”) practices or window replacement. Emergency renovations specifically include interim controls performed in response to an elevated blood lead level in a child. Persons performing renovations for compensation in pre-1978 housing may use either Protect Your Family or Renovate Right to comply with the existing requirement to provide a lead hazard information pamphlet to the owners and occupants of target (pre-1978) housing before beginning renovations. December 22, 2008 Persons performing renovations for compensation in target (pre-1978) housing or child-occupied facilities must provide Renovate Right to the owners and occupants before beginning renovations April 22, 2009 Training providers may begin applying to EPA for accreditation to provide renovator or dust sampling technician training Persons seeking certification as renovators or dust sampling technicians may take accredited training as soon as it is available October 22, 2009 Firms may begin applying to EPA for certification to conduct renovations April 22, 2010 Renovations in target (pre-1978) housing and child-occupied facilities must be conducted by certified renovation firms, using renovators with accredited training, and following the work practice requirements of the rule Jim Bartlett, owner and founder of A Master’s Hands, LLC is an EPA Certified Renovator, and able to comply with all regulations related to renovation of target homes (pre‐1978), including the ability to test for the presence of lead-based paint. We were one of the first contractors in Colorado to obtain this required certification, and are able to provide safe renovation services to our clients in older homes or commercial properties. Please contact us regarding any renovations, repairs or painting projects you’re considering and we’ll be glad to discuss them with you and provide estimates for the work required. A Master’s Hands is the Affordable Handyman Services company in the metro Denver area, serving clients from Erie to Castle Rock and from Aurora to Georgetown. We’re fully licensed, bonded and insured, and strive to maintain a 100% client satisfaction track record. Source: U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD), and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). To Read EPA's Lead Renovation, Repair and Painting Program Rule, or for additional information on becoming an EPA-certified renovator or training provider, visit EPA's Renovator and Trainer Tool Box site.

Carbon Monoxide Detector -- The Wrong and Right Places to Install!

Carbon Monoxide Detector Placement is Crucial!

You may have recently installed a Carbon Monoxide Detector in your home. However, don't mistakenly think that you've created a safe environment by plugging the unit in to an AC outlet near the floor in a bedroom or upstairs hallway.

According to safety experts, families are not safe when Carbon Monoxide Units are mounted lower than seven inches from the ceiling! According to this advice, plugging the unit into a typical outlet near the floor creates very little safeguard against Carbon Monoxide poisoning in your home. Instead, A Master’s Hands, LLC recommends buying a battery operated unit and installing it in a main floor hallway, on or within 6 inches of the ceiling.

If you have already purchased a plug-in Carbon Monoxide Detector and feel you must utilize it, it may make sense to have an expert handyman or licensed electrician come to your home to install an AC outlet closer to the ceiling so the Carbon Monoxide Detector you already purchased can be used and be effective for you. Or, you can simply return the unit you purchased and exchange it for a battery-operated device that can easily be installed on the ceiling near sleeping quarters in your home.

Proper placement of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector is important. If you’re installing only one carbon monoxide detector, the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends it be located near the sleeping area, where it can waken you if you’re asleep. Installing additional detectors on every level and in every bedroom of a home provides extra protection against carbon monoxide poisoning.

Homeowners should take care to not install CO detectors directly above or beside fuel-burning appliances, as such appliances may emit a small amount of carbon monoxide during their start-up phase, causing false alarms. A CO detector should also not be placed within 15 feet of heating or cooking appliances, or in or near very humid areas, such as bathrooms.

WHY IT MATTERS WHERE YOU INSTALL CO DETECTORS

When considering where to place each carbon monoxide detector, keep in mind that although carbon monoxide is roughly the same weight as air (carbon monoxide's specific gravity is 0.9657, as stated by the EPA; whereas “air” has a specific gravity of 1.0), CO is nevertheless slightly lighter than air. Additionally, when CO is generated, it's often contained within warm air coming from combustion appliances, such as home heating equipment. If this is the case, carbon monoxide will rise along with the warmer air. Either way, your best way to detect CO at an early stage is with a detector mounted on or near the ceiling.

For this reason, the makers of First Alert®, a leading brand in carbon monoxide detector technology, suggests mounting their CO detectors on the ceiling. This also puts the detector out of the way of potential interference, such as accidental contact by pets or curious children. Imagine the potential consequences of depending on a detector that’s been inadvertently turned off (or unplugged) by a child innocently playing with it.

Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detector Placement

The International Association of Fire Chiefs recommends a CO detector be placed on every floor of your home, including the basement. A detector should be located within 10 feet of each bedroom door, and there should also be one near or over any attached garage. Each detector should be replaced every five to seven years. The instructions that come with most detectors include the specific replacement timeframe for that unit. Furthermore, often a label is attached to the detector, providing a location for you to record the replacement date for the unit for future reference.

Suggested installation locations seem to vary widely, by manufacturer. Manufacturers’ recommendations sometimes differ based on research conducted with each company’s specific detectors. Therefore, be sure to read the provided installation manual for each model of CO detector before installation.

CO detectors do not automatically serve as smoke detectors and vice versa. That said, “dual-detection” smoke/CO detectors are readily available, and A Master’s Hands recommends such models to our clients. Smoke detectors detect the smoke generated by flaming or smoldering fires, whereas CO detectors are designed to alert residents when CO levels rise above accepted levels. Thus, these devices could go a long way toward preventing loss of live through either smoke inhalation, or carbon monoxide poisoning in the home.

WHERE DOES CO COME FROM?

Carbon monoxide is produced as a byproduct of incomplete combustion of fossil fuels. For example, in the home, CO can be formed by open flames, space heaters, water heaters, blocked chimneys or running a car inside a garage.

Since CO is colorless, tasteless and odorless (unlike smoke from a fire), detection and prevention of carbon monoxide poisoning in a home environment is impossible without a warning device such as a CO detector. In North America, an increasing number of state, provincial and municipal governments require installation of CO detectors in new units - among them at the time of this writing are: the U.S. states of Colorado, Illinois, Massachusetts, Minnesota, New Jersey, and Vermont; plus the Canadian province of Ontario, and New York City.

According to the 2005 edition of the carbon monoxide guidelines, NFPA 720, published by the National Fire Protection Association, sections 5.1.1.1 and 5.1.1.2, all CO detectors "shall be centrally located outside of each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms", and each detector "shall be located on the wall, ceiling or other location as specified in the installation instructions that accompany the unit."

When CO detectors were introduced into the market, they had a limited lifespan of just 2 years. However technology developments have increased this and many now advertise, 5, 6 or even 7 years. Newer models are designed to signal the residents with an audible notice, indicating that the units need to be replaced. That said, there are many instances of detectors actually continuing to operate far beyond this point.

Although all home detectors use an audible alarm signal as the primary indicator, some models also offer a voice alarm that speaks clearly, stating the specific concern -- smoke, carbon monoxide, or even a low-battery situation. Some models also feature a digital readout of the CO concentration, in parts per million. Typically, these models can display both the current reading as well as a peak reading (from memory) of the highest level measured over a period of time.

The digital models offer the advantage of being able to observe levels that are below the alarm threshold, detect and record levels that may have occurred during the residents’ absence, and assess the degree of hazard if the alarm sounds. They may also aid emergency responders in evaluating the level of past or ongoing exposure or danger of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Battery-only carbon monoxide detectors tend to go thru batteries more frequently, but with a need to change batteries only about once yearly, they should be fine. Plug-in detectors with a battery backup (for use if the power is interrupted) provide less battery-changing maintenance, but (as mentioned earlier) there’s usually no duplex (AC power) outlet on the ceiling, so a battery-powered device is recommended.

Some CO detectors are available as system-connected, monitored devices. System-connected detectors, which can be wired to either a security or fire panel, are monitored by a central station. In cases where the residence is empty, the residents are sleeping or occupants are already suffering from the effects of CO, the central station can be alerted to the high concentrations of CO gas and can send the proper authorities to investigate possible carbon monoxide poisoning.

If CO does find its way into your home, the levels may build, creating a dangerous situation. In the UL2034 Standard, Underwriters Laboratories specifies response times for CO alarms as follows:

* At 70 parts per million: Unit must sound alarm within 60-240 minutes.

* At 150 parts per million: Unit must sound alarm within 10-50 minutes.

* At 400 parts per million: Unit must sound alarm within 4-15 minutes.

WHAT TO DO IF YOUR CO DETECTOR ISSUES AN ALARM?

Carbon monoxide is a by-product of combustion, present whenever fuel is burned. It is produced by common household appliances such as gas or oil furnaces, clothes dryers, water heaters, ovens and ranges. A charcoal grill operating in an enclosed area, a fire burning in a fireplace or a car running in an attached garage also produce carbon monoxide.

According to the Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA), carbon monoxide is the number one cause of poisoning deaths in the U.S. Making sure furnaces and other potential carbon monoxide sources are properly vented and in good working condition, along with owning a UL listed carbon-monoxide detector, could become a matter of life and death.

But what do you do and who to you call when your carbon monoxide detector goes into the alarm state? The manufacturer of First Alert®, the leading brand of carbon monoxide detectors, recommends the following:

If the alarm goes off, turn off appliances or other sources of combustion at once. Immediately get fresh air into the premises by opening doors and windows. Call a qualified technician and have the problem fixed before restarting appliances. If anyone is experiencing symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning: headaches, dizziness, vomiting, call the fire department and immediately move to a location that has fresh air. Do a head count to be sure all persons are accounted for. Do not re-enter the premises until it has been aired out and the problem corrected.

To identify the source/s of carbon monoxide, have a professional check the following :

* Gas or oil furnaces are frequently the source of carbon monoxide leaks. Measure concentrations of carbon monoxide in flue gases. Check all connections to flue pipes and venting systems for cracks, gaps, rust, corrosion or debris. Check the filters and filtering systems for dirt and blockages. Check the combustion chamber and heat exchanger for cracks, holes, metal fatigue or corrosion.

* Check furnace flame, burners and ignition systems. A predominately yellow, flat, lazy-looking flame in a natural gas furnace indicates fuel is not burning efficiently and is thus releasing higher than usual levels of carbon monoxide. Oil furnaces with a similar problem produce an 'oil' odor, but remember you can't smell, see or taste carbon monoxide.

* Chimneys and venting systems must be carefully checked for blockages caused by debris, animal nests, cracks, holes or cave-ins. A blocked chimney or venting system can force dangerous gases back into your home.

* Venting and fan systems on all fuel burning appliances must be inspected for proper installation to assure carbon monoxide is vented out rather than in. Don't forget gas water heaters, clothes dryers, space heaters or wood burning stoves.

* Inspect fireplaces for blocked or bent chimneys or flues, soot and debris or holes in the chimney that could release carbon monoxide exhaust back into the home.

* Stove pilot lights in a closed-up home can be a source of carbon monoxide build-up if not operating properly because they are not vented to the outside. Check to be sure they are operating properly.

* Fireplace pilot lights can also produce carbon monoxide and should be checked regularly.

* NOTE: Never burn charcoal inside no matter how much you want to recapture summer and never use your gas stove as a heater. Keep the oven door closed and use it for cooking only.

* NOTE: Never leave a car running in an attached garage even if the garage door is open.

Taking time to understand the characteristics of carbon monoxide and how Underwriters Laboratories, Inc. (UL) listed carbon monoxide detectors work could save your life.

Carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless. There is only one safe and reliable way to detect carbon monoxide in your home -- install a carbon monoxide detector / alarm.

HOW CARBON MONOXIDE AFFECTS YOU

CO combines with hemoglobin by binding tightly with the hemoglobin, the oxygen-carrying agent within our red blood cells. When CO binds with hemoglobin, forming carboxyhemoglobin, oxygen is no longer transported by hemoglobin in the blood to provide life to organs throughout the body. When oxygen is robbed from the brain and other organs, death can result. In addition, up to 40 percent of survivors of severe CO poisoning experience memory impairment and suffer from other serious illnesses.

Many cases of reported carbon monoxide poisoning indicate that victims are aware they aren't feeling well, but become so disoriented that they're unable to save themselves.

HOW TO PREVENT CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING

The Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends every residence with fuel-burning appliances be equipped with at least one UL-Listed CO alarm.

In addition, take the following measures:

* Make sure appliances are installed and operated according to manufacturer’s instructions.

* Have the heating system, chimney and vents inspected and serviced annually.

* Examine vents and chimneys regularly for improper connections, cracks, rust or stains.

* Make sure to read your CO alarm's user’s guide and keep it near your CO alarm for quick reference.

For more information on keeping your home safe, contact A Master’s Hands, LLC.

www.amastershands.com Phone: 720-468-3225

Lock Bumping: Are your family and home safe?

Home Security at Risk! -- Lock Bumping

Something every homeowner should protect themselves against

First, watch these two videos so that you understand how vulnerable most entry-door locks are:

http://www.mul-t-lockusa.com/player.asp?mediaid=5&format=hi – A TV news segment mentioning how lock bumping is used my thieves to quickly gain illegal entry to homes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwTVBWCijEQ -- YouTube video explaining how to make “bump” keys, and how they are used. The bad guys already know all about this method…I’m just educating h homeowners.

What can and should be done?

1. Get a monitored Alarm System! First of all, a lock is only a deterrent to theft or burglary. It won’t stop a determined thief who can simply break out a window and come in that way. The strongest deterrent is a monitored alarm system, which is much more difficult to circumvent, and protects against all forms of entry. Most alarm systems also have a provision for detecting motion inside the home, so that even if a thief is able to gain entry without triggering a window or door circuit (such as by knocking a hole through a wall and crawing in that way), the thief’s motion inside the home will trigger the alarm. Most of the better alarm systems with motion sensing technology can also be adjusted to accommodate movement of small pets inside your home while you’re away, without a “false trigger” of the alarm. Most alarm systems also can be fitted with glass-breakage alarm sensors, so that if non-protected glass panes are broken (such as an upper-story picture window or sidelight panels – areas of glass that wouldn’t normally be used for entry) the alarm will sense the unique sound of broken glass and trigger the alarm.
2. Post exterior signs advertising your alarm system. If you have an alarm system, be sure its presence is well advertised around the perimeter of your home….such as with easily-recognized signs near primary entry points. With an alarm, the objective should never be to surprise a would-be thief by allowing him to first break one of your doors or windows in an attempted illegal entry, only to discover you have an active alarm system which he’s just triggered. At that point it’s too late to prevent property damage, and the broken window/door may allow wind, rain, snow (etc) to enter your home for an hour or more before someone arrives and discovers it and can take corrective action. Far better to alert the thief to your alarm’s presence, and thus dissuade him from attempting entry to your home. He’ll move on, looking for easier pickings elsewhere.
3. Use the alarm system! It’s amazing to me how many people have homes that are equipped with alarm systems, but who don’t utilize them. They’ve become complacent with their state of low-security, and don’t feel at risk of a break-in. Further, they’ve probably come to see an alarm system as a hassle….one more thing to deal with whenever they need to run out or come back from errands. Thus, they don’t arm their alarm, sometimes leave their garage door open, and even take off and in advertently leave other entry doors (besides the one they depart through) unlocked. This is a potential thief’s dream-come-true.
4. Upgrade your locks! Once you have the “umbrella” coverage in place that comes from an active alarm system, the next thing to consider is replacing entry-door locks with bump-proof locksets. If you don’t already have an alarm system and one is not in your budget, then upgrading to bump-proof locksets should be a very high priority. If you don’t have deadbolts, put one in on each entry door. They are much more secure than a simple doorknob lockset. Lastly, if an entry door contains glass panels, or there are adjacent glass panels (such as in sidelights or window panels), consider using a twin (not single) cylinder deadbolt, so a thief can’t simply break a small pane of glass, reach through the hole and unlock your deadbolt from the inside using the lever. If you use a twin-cylinder deadbolt, be sure to remove the key from the lock after locking it….put on a nearby end-table or anywhere else your family members can remember to look for it and quickly / easily find it in case of emergency.

A Master's Hands, LLC can assist our clients in replacing weak links in their home security....improved locksets, deadbolts, etc. Call us for more information!