Replacing Support Posts

Replacing A Rotten Support Post

Exterior decks on older homes are often supported by 4x4 posts that are "untreated" lumber and become rotten over time, requiring replacement. A recent client of mine needed this kind of work done and contacted us to help with the project.

This type of project is pretty straightforward for an able-bodied homeowner, especially if he/she is able to obtain help from a friend or neighbor.

The first step is to determine specifically what materials are needed for the repair. This includes the length of the new pressure-treated 4x4 post, and any other lumber required, such as trim pieces, shims, etc. In many instances the existing support post will be sitting on a concrete pier or pad, but not actually tied into the concrete. In such cases, you may find that the top end of the post has simply been toe-nailed into the adjacent joists (usually 2" x 10" or similar). When replacing a support post of this type, I recommend using a metal "box" bracket to secure the post to the concrete pier on the bottom, and "L" brackets to secure the post to joists at the top. Naturally, you'll need masonry anchors to go into the concrete and fasten to the metal bracket at the bottom, and deck screws to secure the L brackets at the top. So, you'll need 1/2-inch anchor bolts sufficiently long to drive 2.5-3 inches into the concrete and still have at least an inch of threads above the bracket. Be sure to purchase matching washers, and nuts. You'll also need 2-4 lag bolts the right size to go through side holes in the box bracket, as well as L-brackets and and some deck screws.

Beyond the above hardware and lumber components, you'll need primer and topcoat paint for the new post. It's much easier to prime and paint support posts (especially very tall ones) while they are horizontal, rather than having to stand on a ladder to paint them once they've been installed. It's also wise to purchase concrete sealer to seal the pad after you have drilled it to receive the anchor bolts.

In addition to the above materials, you'll need to assemble all the necessary tools:

1. Pole jack -- critical to providing support for the deck while removing the existing rotted support post and installing the new one. (This is a tool you can rent at many tool rental shops; there's no need to purchase one unless you expect to be doing this sort of repair frequently.)
2. Hammer drill and 1/2-inch masonry bit -- to drill holes for the masonry anchor bolts. A regular electric drill will work, but a hammer drill makes the job a lot easier...it makes the masonry bit cut through concrete like butter.
   
3. Plastic mallet -- to help drive metal "box" bracket onto post bottom, and to set the anchor bolts into the concrete pad.
4. Hammer -- to help remove the old post and toe-nailed fasteners
5. Drill / screw gun -- to pre-drill holes and drive new deck screws at top; drive lag bolts
   
6. Saw (hand saw or power circular saw) -- to cut new post to final length before installation
   
7. Ratchet wrench and socket set (3/8- oir 1/2inch drive)
8. Crow or pry bar -- to help remove trim pieces, and to break the old post free of joists
9. Paint brush, roller, roller pan, etc. -- to apply primer and paint to new post, and to apply sealant to the concrete pad
10. Plumb bob -- for ensuring the new post is positioned vertically
11. Level -- to check level of top of deck when setting height with new post
    
12. Ladder.
    

Doing the Job:

First, position the pole jack adjacent to the existing post at both top and bottom, ensuring you have a good, stable point on which the jack sits -- both on the concrete and on the bottom surface of the deck structure.

Before you jack up the deck, check existing level to see how close everything is to being level. A longer level is best, but even a short one will give you an idea. If you're using a 2-foot level and the deck side is 10 feet long, you're multiplier factor is 5. If you're off by what appears to be 1/16-inch of level (need to raise one end of the level this much to center the bubble when measuring at the end of the deck), then multiply by the factor (5 in the example given) and that's how much the deck should be raised (or lowered) to hit dead level when you install the new post. If you measure the length of the existing post and add/subtract this amount, you'll be very close to the length dimension you need to cut the new post. I say "close" because you'll natgurally need to take the thickness of the box bracket into account in the final calculation.

Next, begin cranking the jack up until it begins to take the weight of the deck off of the old support post. Check this periodically as you apply increasing pressure with the pole jack. I also recommend using deck screws to secure the pole jack in place so it can't scoot or slip sideways under pressure.

Once the pole jack is supporting essentially all of the weight of the deck, push the old post out of position (the bottom may be simply sitting on the concrete pad), and then wrest the top end free of the joists above, using a hammer, small sledge, and/or pry bar.

Next, use the plumb bob to ensure you locate the proper center point for the new post on the concrete pad, and mark it, using the metal box bracket. I use a small cup hook to hang the bob line from the center point of the deck mounting point, and adjust the length until the bob tip just brushes the concrete pad. When the bob becomes stationary (you may need to help it, especially if it's a windy day), mark the center point, and then extend that mark so you have center marks for all mounting-hole positions (from "ears" of box bracket) on the concrete pad. Now you're ready to drill the anchor holes.

Drill the anchor holes with a masonry bit, taking care to ensure the bit doesn't travel. It only takes a small amount of bit travel to shift a hole enough that it will make it difficult to get all the anchor bolts to align with holes in the bracket. Most anchor bolts are designed to be sunk at least two inches in the concrete, and this depth will magnify any error caused by drill bit drift on the surface. One way to minimize drift is to clamp (or have someone secure by standing on) the bracket against the concrete pad and drill the anchor holes with the bit threaded through the mounting bracket holes.

Drive the anchor bolts into the holes taking care not to bugger the top ends while driving. I use a plastic or hard rubber mallet for this purpose, but you can also use a regular hammer or small sledge together with a scrap piece of wood, such as a 9-inch piece of 1" x 2" as a buffer. Hold one end of the wood scrap and position the wood on top of the anchor bolt. Then strike the wood directly over the bolt. Move the wood around as you continue striking, so that the top of the bolt doesn't fully penetrate the wood. When you're finished, the wood scrap will be destroyed, but you'll have protected the bolt ends. Prep the concrete with sealant, to ensure against scaling or spalling. This is especially important if you live in climate with serious freeze/thaw cycles.

Prep the post by priming and painting. You may want to consider a special waterproof coating for the bottom 4-5 inches, to ensure against rot, especially if you live in a climate where snow may accumulate around the bottom of the post.

Slide the bracket into the bottom end of the new post, ensuring the post bottoms out in the bracket. Secure the bracket to the post with lag bolts through side holes. Most brackets are pre-drilled with 8 or more mounting holes for this purpose; however, you should only need 2-4 lag bolts. As you pre-drill the wood post for the bolts, be sure to select holes that are offset from each other so the bolts won't interfere with each other when you drive them in.

Set the bottom end of the post in place, so that the anchor bolts fit through the holes in the box bracket, while leaning the top end of the post off at an angle (usually inside, under the deck, to clear outside overhanging trim pieces), and then swing the top of the post up and into position.

Check to ensure the post is plumb (both directions) and then slowly lower the deck weight onto the new post by lowering the pole jack. As weight transfers to the new post, you should be able to confirm if the length is correct by checking level on the deck railing above. If you're a bit high, jack up again, remove the post and trim it slightly, as appropriate. If you're low, you'll need to add a shim of appropriate thickness. Once you have the correct length and are level on top when the weight is fully on the new post, secure the top end with L brackets and deck screws, then secure the bottom box bracket with washers and nuts.

All that remains to be done is installation of any exterior trim pieces that may have been removed. All done!

Simple Concrete Repairs

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Is Your Concrete Driveway or Sidewalk in Need of Repair?

With the economy being in the shape it's in, more and more people are holding on to the homes they have rather than upgrading, resizing, etc. This trend has natural consequences, such as the need for people to do more repairs and routine maintenance on their existing homes as time passes.

As homes age, an increasing number of homeowners are noticing that concrete driveways, sidewalks and patios are showing signs that they're in need of repair. The problem areas tend to range from small cracks or small areas of scaling to larger cracks, spalling, pop-outs, and break-offs. As with almost all problems, if addressed quickly, they can be remediated at lower cost than if such problems are allowed to continue to go unchecked. Problems areas in concrete that should be addressed immediately are large cracks, serious spalling, corners that are broken off, or areas that are heaving or sinking.

Naturally, concrete repairs can be very expensive, so I've found most people would prefer to do the work themselves, assumiung they have the knowledge to do so. Thus, here's some tips on doing some of the more basic concrete repairs....they're not difficult to do, and don't require expensive tools.

Many homeowners have successfully made repairs to their driveways themselves, benefiting from significant cost savings. For those with driveways in need of repair and who have the skills and inclination to make their own repairs, here's some basic information that should be of value. A Master's Hands, LLC does not warrant the accuracy of this information, or accept any liability associated with the use of this information – it’s provided solely for our readers' convenience. If in doubt, contact a professional concrete repair service.

Repairing Cracks in Concrete

There are a number of simple methods that can be used to repair cracks in concrete. The appropriate method to use depends on the severity of the crack, whether it's located indoors our outdoors, and whether you plan to paint or stain the concrete afterward.

First, you should know that not all cracks in concrete need to be repaired. All concrete is guaranteed to crack sooner or later. That's why contractors include grooves (called control or expansion joints) across the surface of concrete. Those joints are meant to intentionally weaken the concrete in those particular spots to give the concrete a natural "weak" spot in which to crack. When cracks occur along these joints, the cracks are much less noticeable. In most cases these cracks along expansion joints don't become a problem as long as there is a proper sub-grade layer through which water can pass, such that water doesn't remain standing in the cracks, where it can freeze and cause further cracking.

More often than not, repairs made to minor cracks can be more unsightly than the cracks themselves. Cracks 1/8-inch or less in width can usually be left alone without further damage occurring. This rule-of-thumb assumes you have a proper sub-grade, and also assumes the crack wasn’t caused by an entire section breaking off and separating completely from the rest of the surface (such as when a heavy weight is applied on a corner that breaks through). The most common cause of such "break-offs" is a heavy truck or other vehicle driving over the surface, close to the edge where underlying support is weaker. Thus, always be careful about having heavy vehicles drive on your concrete driveway. If they must do so, be sure to have them stay away from the edges of the surface.

If a small untreated crack grows larger, or you see the concrete chipping away along the crack, you should address it by having some repairs done. However, repairing concrete cracks won't always solve the problem if the concrete isn't structurally sound – such as when the cracking is being caused by movement in the earth below…such as in areas troubled by expansive soil (e.g. bentonite, etc).

If a crack has quickly opened more than ¼-inch in width, or there is vertical displacement (one side of the crack is higher than the other), you should consult a contractor for structural problems and solutions.

Methods for Repairing Simple Concrete Cracks:

For small cracks, use a wire brush to remove any loose debris and rinse thoroughly with water. Allow the crack to dry completely. Use concrete / mortar repair or epoxy crack filler (in a caulking tube, with caulk gun) to fill the crack. Force the material down inside the crack with a thin object such as a putty knife. Then smooth out the surface with a trowel, or with your finger.

For larger cracks, clean, rinse and let it dry. Then chisel out the crack to create a backward-angled cut, using a cold chisel and a hammer (see figure). This shape, along with the bonding adhesive, helps keep the repair material from loosening or popping out of the crack. Mix a batch of concrete patching material according to the supplied instructions. Fill the crack with the patching material, making sure it is forced well down into the concrete, filling the entire crack if possible. Then smooth out the surface with a trowel.

For even larger cracks follow the cleaning directions above, then pour sand into the crack below the top surface. Prepare sand-mix concrete, adding a concrete fortifier, then trowel the mixture into the crack, feathering until even with the surrounding surface.

When the patching begins to harden, scrape off excess down the sides of the crack and smooth out the repair with a soft, wet brush. An old paintbrush should work well.

Repair Tips:

Repair concrete cracks when the temperature is above 50 degrees (F) and overnight temperatures are not expected to drop below freezing the next few nights.

If you plan to acid stain your concrete, be sure the caulk or patching used for any repairs contains cement or cementitious material. If not, the acid won't react properly with the patches will be left uncolored by the stain.

Don't do repairs when it's too hot or too windy. If you do so, the material will dry out too fast, resulting in a weak repair. If repairs in such conditions are unavoidable, then secure a plastic sheet covering over it, and/or take steps to shield it from the sun.

After your repairs are fully cured, if they appear significantly darker in color than the surrounding concrete, try rubbing the patched area with a flat stone. This will turn the repaired areas of concrete white, making it less noticeable.

After you repair cracks in concrete, it's always a good idea to put a coat of concrete sealer over the area to help prevent water seepage. This will help your repair last longer.

Spalling / Scaling

Concrete spalling and scaling are common occurrences, especially on exterior surfaces that are exposed to many freeze and thaw cycles. The difference between the two situations is that spalling involves bigger chunks breaking loose. There are many causes of spalling, including improper finishing methods and curing methods. Scaling on a properly finished and cured surface is most often caused by the use of salt or other de-icing chemicals on the surface, especially in the first year or two after the concrete has been poured, or later on when the surface has not been recently re-sealed.

Pop-outs

Popouts are a fairly common occurrence on exterior concrete surfaces. They are small, conical pieces that break away from the surface, leaving a shallow divot. This happens when aggregates near the surface split or expand, creating pressure and causing pieces of concrete to pop out of the surface. Fortunately, with spalling, scaling or popouts, simple repairs can be performed to fill the voids, which will help prevent further deterioration, as well as improving the look of your concrete walk or driveway.

How to Repair

1. Chip out the edges of spalled/scaled or popout areas, and use a hose to clean out the area. Brush away all loose debris and concrete chips. You may wish to use a pressure washer, if available. Clean the area thoroughly with water and use cleaners to get rid of oil and grease or anything that might inhibit bonding of the repair. Then let it dry fully.
2. Mix up a batch of concrete repair mortar. If the damaged area is deeper than an inch, add some small gravel to the mix, such as pea gravel. Make sure the repair mortar contains a bonding agent, or add some liquid bonding agent to the mix. Anything that says acrylic, vinyl, or latex on the label should contain a bonding agent.
3. Place the mortar in the hole and smooth with a trowel. Don't overwork it.
4. When the patch begins to harden, brush it lightly with a damp brush for a better appearance.
5. For curing, brush some clear sealer over the surface before it gets too hard and begins turning white. If you don't have any sealer, keep it covered with a damp towel or other covering for a few days.

Tips on Maintenance Following Your Repairs:

1. No foot traffic on the surface for at least 36 hours, and no vehicle traffic for at least a week.
2. Apply concrete sealer after resurfacing has hardened, and once a year in the fall if you live in a harsh climate.
3. Use de-icers that DO NOT contain any calcium or sodium chloride.

A Master's Hands -- Tips from the Handyman Pros

Hi -- this blog is a free service, through which I hope to provide basic information to homeowners, such as tips on how to make simple repairs, adjustments, etc., to save money and make their lives more enjoyable and homes more safe and secure.

I welcome ideas on topics for future blog entries. Just email me! -- Jim Bartlett, A Master's Hands